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ORIGINAL RESEARCH article
Front. Sports Act. Living
Sec. Exercise Physiology
Volume 6 - 2024 |
doi: 10.3389/fspor.2024.1480205
This article is part of the Research Topic Injuries, Injury Prevention and Training in Climbing - Volume II View all 4 articles
Optimizing Active Recovery Strategies for Finger Flexor Fatigue
Provisionally accepted- Charles University, Prague, Czechia
Introduction: Active recovery (AR) is used during exercise training; however, it is unclear whether the AR should involve the whole body, only the upper extremities, or only the lower extremities when aiming to maintain localized upper body performance. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the impact of different AR strategies on repeated intermittent finger flexor performance leading to exhaustion.A crossover trial involving a familiarization session and 3 laboratory visits, each including 3 exhaustive intermittent isometric tests at 60% of finger flexor maximal voluntary contraction separated by 22 minutes of randomly assigned AR: walking, intermittent hanging, and climbing.The impulse (Nꞏs) significantly decreased from the first to third trials after walking (-18.4%, P=0.002, d=0.78), climbing (-29.5%, P<0.001, d=1.48), and hanging (-27.2%, P<0.001, d=1.22). At the third trial, the impulse from the intermittent test was significantly higher after walking (21,253 ±5,650 Nꞏs) than after hanging (18,618±5,174 Nꞏs, P=0.013, d=0.49) and after climbing (18,508±4,435 Nꞏs, P=0.009, d=0.54).The results show that easy climbing or intermittent isolated forearm contractions should not be used as AR strategies to maintain subsequent performance in comparison to walking, indicating that using the same muscle group for AR should be avoided between exhaustive isometric contractions.
Keywords: Rock climbing, Near Infrared Spectroscopy, oxygen saturation, Sport climbing, intermittent exercise
Received: 13 Aug 2024; Accepted: 21 Nov 2024.
Copyright: © 2024 Krupková, Tufano and Baláš. This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY). The use, distribution or reproduction in other forums is permitted, provided the original author(s) or licensor are credited and that the original publication in this journal is cited, in accordance with accepted academic practice. No use, distribution or reproduction is permitted which does not comply with these terms.
* Correspondence:
Jiří Baláš, Charles University, Prague, Czechia
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