AUTHOR=Vereide Vegard , Andersen Vidar , Hermans Espen , Kalland Jarle , Saeterbakken Atle Hole , Stien Nicolay 

TITLE=Differences in Upper-Body Peak Force and Rate of Force Development in Male Intermediate, Advanced, and Elite Sport Climbers

JOURNAL=Frontiers in Sports and Active Living

VOLUME=4

YEAR=2022

URL=https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/sports-and-active-living/articles/10.3389/fspor.2022.888061

DOI=10.3389/fspor.2022.888061

ISSN=2624-9367

ABSTRACT=<p>The aim of this study was to investigate the difference in climbing-specific strength and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced, and elite male sport climbers. Seventy-eight male climbers were recruited and divided into groups based on the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) numerical (1–32) grading system (intermediate (10–17) group (IG; <italic>n</italic> = 28)), advanced (18–23) group (AG; <italic>n</italic> = 30) and elite (24–27) group (EG; <italic>n</italic> = 20). Peak force (<italic>F</italic><sub>peak</sub>) and average force (<italic>F</italic><sub>avg</sub>) were measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm thick campus rung. RFD was calculated from the onset of force to maximal peak force. The elite group performed better in all test parameters than the advanced (<italic>F</italic><sub>peak</sub>: 39.7%, ES = 1.40, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001; <italic>F</italic><sub>avg</sub>: 45.6%, ES = 4.60, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001; RFD: 74.9%, ES = 1.42, <italic>p</italic> = 0.001) and intermediate group (<italic>F</italic><sub>peak</sub>: 95.7%, ES = 2.54, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001, <italic>F</italic><sub>avg</sub>: 131.1%, ES = 5.84, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001, RFD: 154.4%, ES = 2.21, <italic>p</italic> = 0.001). Moreover, the advanced group demonstrated greater <italic>F</italic><sub>peak</sub> (40.1%, ES = 1.24, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001), <italic>F</italic><sub>avg</sub> (59.1%, ES = 1.57, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001) and RFD (45.5%, ES = 1.42, <italic>p</italic> = 0.046), than the intermediate group. Finally, climbing performance displayed strong correlations with <italic>F</italic><sub>peak</sub> (<italic>r</italic> = 0.73, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001) and <italic>F</italic><sub>avg</sub> (<italic>r</italic> = 0.77, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001), and a moderate correlation with RFD (<italic>r</italic> = 0.64, <italic>p</italic> &lt; 0.001). In conclusion, maximal force and RFD in a climbing specific test are greater among climbers on higher performance levels. Independent of climbing level there is a moderate-to-strong association between maximal and rapid force production and climbing performance.</p>