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REVIEW article

Front. Mar. Sci.
Sec. Marine Biotechnology and Bioproducts
Volume 11 - 2024 | doi: 10.3389/fmars.2024.1500778

DERMOCOSMETIC PROPERTIES OF BIOPRODUCTS FROM Sargassum MACROALGAE: CHEMICAL ASPECTS, CHALLENGES, AND OPPORTUNITIES

Provisionally accepted
THALISIA CUNHA DOS SANTOS THALISIA CUNHA DOS SANTOS 1,2,3,4*LEVI POMPERMAYER MACHADO LEVI POMPERMAYER MACHADO 3,5*ANA LUIZA VIDAL PIMENTEL ANA LUIZA VIDAL PIMENTEL 6*Roberto Carlos Campos Martins Roberto Carlos Campos Martins 1Diana N. Cavalcanti Diana N. Cavalcanti 4GUILHERME WOLFF BUENO GUILHERME WOLFF BUENO 3,5*ANA LETÍCIA MADEIRA SANCHES ANA LETÍCIA MADEIRA SANCHES 3,5JOHANA MARCELA CONCHA OBANDO JOHANA MARCELA CONCHA OBANDO 2,3,7*
  • 1 Programa de Pós-graduação em Química de Produtos Naturais, Instituto de Pesquisa em Produtos Naturais Walter Mors, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, RJ,, Brazil
  • 2 Seallg. Startup Solutions, Innovation and Products., Registro, SP, Brazil
  • 3 Aquário de Ideias. Incubadora de Base Científica e Tecnológica do Vale do Ribeira e Litoral Sul de São Paulo,Universidade Estadual Paulista “Júlio de Mesquita Filho, Registro, SP, Brazil., Brazil
  • 4 ALGAMAR, Departamento de Biologia Marinha, Instituto de Biologia, Universidade Federal Fluminense,, Niterói, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
  • 5 Programa de Pós-graduação em Engenharia de Biomateriais e Bioprocessos; Instituto de Estudos Avançados do Mar (IEAMar); Centro de aquicultura da UNESP (CAUNESP), Registro, SP, Brazil
  • 6 Faculdade de Farmácia, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brazil
  • 7 Departamento de Recursos Pesqueiros e Aquicultura - DERPA, Faculdade de Ciências Agrárias do Vale do Ribeira, Registro, Brazil

The final, formatted version of the article will be published soon.

    The cosmetics industry is experiencing continuous growth and the search for dermoactive metabolites continues to increase, positioning natural marine products as an essential element in this market. The genus Sargassum, a cosmopolitan brown alga, stands out for its diversified arsenal of metabolites with biological properties of great interest for the cosmetic sector. This study presents an updated review of the dermocosmetic properties of 17 Sargassum species published between 2020 and 2024, emphasizing increasing interest in its antioxidant and photoprotective properties. Furthermore, the review highlights the crucial role of green extraction methodologies, such as ultrassom-assisted extraction (EAU), enzymeassisted extraction (EAE) and microwave-assisted extraction (MAE). It is also provided a conceptual outline of the spectrometric analytical techniques used for characterization of extracts and identification of active composts, such as polysaccharides (alginate and fucoidane), phenolic composts (phlorotannins and phenylpropanóids) and terpenoids (diterpenoids, saponins and norisoprenóids). In addition to addressing bioprospecting and the potential of the biorefinery in the cosmetics sector, this review analyzes challenges related to quality control of raw materials, seasonal fluctuations of seaweed and regulations governing the collection and use of seaweed. To provide a detailed update on the dermocosmetic potential of these algae, the review aims to support future research and encourage bioprospection of this biomass as a sustainable and promising source for the development of new bioproducts.

    Keywords: Brown seaweed, Marine Natural Products, cosmeceutical, Bioprospecting, Dermoactive

    Received: 23 Sep 2024; Accepted: 16 Oct 2024.

    Copyright: © 2024 CUNHA DOS SANTOS, POMPERMAYER MACHADO, VIDAL PIMENTEL, Campos Martins, Cavalcanti, WOLFF BUENO, MADEIRA SANCHES and CONCHA OBANDO. This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY). The use, distribution or reproduction in other forums is permitted, provided the original author(s) or licensor are credited and that the original publication in this journal is cited, in accordance with accepted academic practice. No use, distribution or reproduction is permitted which does not comply with these terms.

    * Correspondence:
    THALISIA CUNHA DOS SANTOS, Programa de Pós-graduação em Química de Produtos Naturais, Instituto de Pesquisa em Produtos Naturais Walter Mors, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, RJ,, Brazil
    LEVI POMPERMAYER MACHADO, Aquário de Ideias. Incubadora de Base Científica e Tecnológica do Vale do Ribeira e Litoral Sul de São Paulo,Universidade Estadual Paulista “Júlio de Mesquita Filho, Registro, SP, Brazil., Brazil
    ANA LUIZA VIDAL PIMENTEL, Faculdade de Farmácia, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brazil
    GUILHERME WOLFF BUENO, Aquário de Ideias. Incubadora de Base Científica e Tecnológica do Vale do Ribeira e Litoral Sul de São Paulo,Universidade Estadual Paulista “Júlio de Mesquita Filho, Registro, SP, Brazil., Brazil
    JOHANA MARCELA CONCHA OBANDO, Aquário de Ideias. Incubadora de Base Científica e Tecnológica do Vale do Ribeira e Litoral Sul de São Paulo,Universidade Estadual Paulista “Júlio de Mesquita Filho, Registro, SP, Brazil., Brazil

    Disclaimer: All claims expressed in this article are solely those of the authors and do not necessarily represent those of their affiliated organizations, or those of the publisher, the editors and the reviewers. Any product that may be evaluated in this article or claim that may be made by its manufacturer is not guaranteed or endorsed by the publisher.